Whether you have a butcher block counter top or just a cutting board, these surfaces can fall victim to stains and discoloration over time.

In this blog post, we’ll explore natural and effective solutions using three simple ingredients: salt, lemon juice, and hydrogen peroxide. They actually work because butcher block counters have been around since before all of the strong chemicals that we use now even existed.

Three Tested Methods

I did a trial of all three cleaning methods. I intentionally made a strawberry stain on my butcher block cutting board to determine which cleaning method was most effective.

1. Salt – The Scrubbing Powerhouse: Salt is a versatile ingredient that can act as a gentle abrasive without causing damage to your butcher block. Its granular texture helps lift stubborn stains and grime without scratching the surface. I used the salt as an abrasive with a damp paper towel.
2. Lemon Juice – Nature’s Bleach: Lemon juice is a natural bleaching agent with antibacterial properties. Its acidic nature makes it effective in breaking down stains and disinfecting surfaces. The fresh citrus scent is an added bonus.
3. Hydrogen Peroxide – Stain Fighter and Disinfectant: Hydrogen peroxide is a mild antiseptic that also works wonders on stains. It is particularly effective against organic stains like those from food and beverages.

The Cleaning Process

I used a combination of salt, hydrogen peroxide and lemon juice to clean a strawberry stain on my butcher block cutting board. I found that with the combination of all three ingredients I was able to clean the stain completely. I just used a damp paper towel to gently scrub the stain.

Conclusion – Which Worked Best?

I suppose in hindsight I could have made a paste with all three ingredients and let it sit for a few minutes to achieve similar results.

Be sure to oil your butcher block surfaces after removing the stain. I like to use Boos Block Mystery Oil after removing tough stains or just for maintenance on a monthly basis. This oil helps protect wood food prep surfaces and keeps it from drying out and cracking. It is easy to apply with just a damp cloth.

Maintaining the beauty of your butcher block doesn’t have to involve harsh chemicals. By harnessing the power of salt, lemon juice, and hydrogen peroxide, you can effectively clean and revitalize your kitchen surfaces naturally.

The post Say Goodbye to Butcher Block Stains With These Simple Methods appeared first on Design Morsels.

But there’s good news: It’s possible to maintain the pristine condition of your Corian countertops without much hassle. This post will guide you through a simple process using easy steps to ensure your countertops remain like new.

I live in the country and my water has all sorts of minerals that leave hard water spots.  I recently built a house and have white Corian kitchen countertops.  On the surface they look clean, but the other day I caught a glimpse of my countertops with the sun streaming through the window and they are covered with water spots.  

I tried just wiping them down with soap and water, but no luck, the water stains were still there.  This drove me crazy so I went on a quest to figure out how to remove the hard water spots from Corian countertop. 

​Understanding Your Surface

Corian is a high-quality product developed by DuPont Corian. Unlike some countertop materials, it boasts a non-porous surface, which means food stains, rust stains, and other tough stains don’t penetrate easily.

Depending on your design choice, you may have a matte finish, a glossy finish, or even a gloss finish. Each type of countertop finish may require slightly different cleaning methods.

Cleaning Hard Water Stains

I did a head-to-head comparison of 6 different cleaning methods; white vinegar, hydrogen peroxide (straight up and mixed with water) CLR, Bar Keepers Friend, Viakal and Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.  

I have also seen recommendations for using a baking soda and water paste, but it would take a lot of paste to cover my countertops so that’s not something I tried.  

1. White Vinegar:  I tried white vinegar on a small area.  After rinsing with water & drying completely the hard water stains were still visible.  That was a fail.
2. Hydrogen Peroxide: ​I tried a mixture of hydrogen peroxide with water as well as straight hydrogen peroxide.  This didn’t remove any of the water spots.  
3. Bar Keepers Friend:  I use this product to clean lots of surfaces so I decided to try it on a small area of my countertops.  I didn’t go crazy scrubbing, but just gently washed in a small circular motion, then rinsed and dried.  While it did remove the water spots, it seemed to leave a dull finish. 
4. CLR:  ​I have used CLR to remove hard water stains on my glass shower doors, so I decided to try it on my Corian countertops.  After applying it I let it sit for a few minutes then rinsed and dried.  CLR removed the water spots without leaving a dull finish on the countertops.
5. Viakal:  ​This is something recommended for removing hard water stains.  It is a gel, which I like, and per the instructions after application it should sit for a few minutes.  After rinsing and drying the water spots were still visible.  Very disappointing.  
6. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser: I was not expecting the mr. clean magic eraser to be successful at all, but it did a decent job removing the hard water spots.  I was pleasantly surprised, 

What to Avoid

• Strong Chemicals: Acid drain cleaners, oven cleaners, and paint stripper are a big no-no for Corian surfaces.
• Abrasive Cleaners: While soft scrub can help with minor stains, avoid using an abrasive pad or strong detergents.
• Special Mention: Do not use window cleaners, strong chemicals like oxalic acid, or harsh chemicals on your Corian counters.

Maintaining smooth surfaces like Corian is not difficult once you’re familiar with the dos and don’ts.  

I saw the best results with CLR, Barkeeper’s Friend and the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, but I plan to keep looking for other cleaning solutions.  

The moral of the story is, if you have hard water it pays to dry your countertops completely after washing them so hard water stains don’t have a chance to set in. 

If you liked this post you might like how to clean a stainless sink or how to clean an indoor griddle.

I use affiliate links so I can afford to keep doing this. Hope it saves you time. See my disclosure policy.

The post How to Clean Hard Water Spots on Corian Countertops appeared first on Design Morsels.

However, maintaining a sparkling clean oven is essential. I wish I really adhered to this. The truth be told, I clean my oven right before I have company out of embarrassment.

The good news is that you can achieve excellent results without exposing yourself to toxic fumes or using harmful chemicals. In this article I am going to share my review of one particular natural cleaner; Campanelli Cleaning Paste.  

I use affiliate links so I can afford to keep doing this. Hope it saves you time. See my disclosure policy.

The Hazards of Conventional Oven Cleaners

Conventional oven cleaners often contain strong acids, sodium hydroxide, and other harmful chemicals that emit toxic fumes. These fumes can be particularly concerning if you have respiratory issues or a sensitive immune system.

The harsh ingredients can damage the oven’s surfaces, especially if it’s made of stainless steel, and can potentially harm the environment, especially if they end up in the septic tank.

I’ve also had a bad experience using my oven’s self-cleaning mode. It smells terrible and gets so hot that the whole house is hot. It’s already 110 degrees outside, so I don’t need that.

Natural Ingredients: Your Oven’s Best Friends

My oven had become a bit of a mess with baked-on grease and burnt-on food in the bottom of the oven. This is my oven before cleaning:

 I was looking for a store-bought oven cleaner that didn’t have a strong odor.    I know there are a lot of home made oven cleaners you can use like baking soda paste, white vinegar with lemon juice and hydrogen peroxide, but I decided to try this instead.

I have used baking soda in the past and its pretty time-consuming and messy.

Campanelli cleaning paste claims to clean all sorts of surfaces with very little elbow grease so I wanted to give it a try and post a review with the pros and cons.

Campenelli’s is mild abrasive and according to the packaging, is safe to use on glass stove tops, glass, non-stick cook ware, silver, gold, ceramic and stainless steel sinks.  It specifies that it should not be used on highly polished stainless steel, copper, silver or gold. 

Step-by-Step Guide to Oven Cleaning

1. Prepare Your Oven:

• Ensure the oven is cold.
• Remove oven racks, thermometer, and any other removable parts.

2.  Apply Campanelli Cleaning Paste:

• The instructions say to apply the paste with a soft cloth and gently rub.  
• It doesn’t specify any sort of waiting period for the paste to work, but instead says to wipe the excess paste with a damp cloth or sponge. 

3.   Racks and Removable Parts:

• I cleaned the oven racks separately in the sink, using the paste and a sponge. 

4. Glass Oven Door:

• I used the Campanelli paste on the oven glass as well by just applying it and then wiping it clean.  

Pros and Cons of Campanelli Cleaning Paste

Pros:

1. First and foremost, I didn’t have to come up with this concoction.  I just ordered it and it was delivered to my door.  I’m lazy so I like that.
2. Campanelli is a thick paste so it was easy to apply.
3. The product is lemon-scented.  In all honesty, it had very little scent, which is a pro in my book.
4. I did scrub the interior of the oven a bit after applying the paste, but I didn’t have to scrub much to see results.  I didn’t have a scouring pad so I just used a wet sponge.
5. At first I thought the tub of paste was a little on the small side and wouldn’t clean much, but I was surprised at how little I used.  In addition, it is an all purpose cleaner, so I can use it on all sorts of things. 

Cons:

1. I ended up repeating the application process a second time to get better results.  I didn’t mind so much because the process was simple, but once would be more efficient. On the left is the oven after just one application of the paste and on the right after a second application.

2. I was left with a few stains in the bottom of the oven.  I am not that picky and was pleased with how easy it was to get my oven clean.

Maintenance Tips for a Clean Oven

• Self-Cleaning Cycle: Many modern ovens come with a self-cleaning feature. Utilize this feature to reduce the need for frequent deep cleaning.
• Spot Cleaning: After spills and baking sessions, quickly wipe down any messes to prevent the buildup of tough stains.
• Regular Oven Racks Cleaning: Remove and clean oven racks every few months to prevent layers of grease from accumulating.
• Use Oven Liners: Consider placing non-stick oven liners on the bottom of your oven to catch drips and spills, making cleanup easier.

Embrace the Natural Approach

Cleaning your oven doesn’t have to involve harsh chemicals and strong odors. By opting for natural ingredients and methods, you can achieve sparkling results with minimal effort.

I was pretty pleased with the results I got with Campenelli Cleaning Paste. This combined with a little elbow grease transformed my dirty oven into a shining, fume-free kitchen companion. So, say goodbye to toxic fumes and embrace the power of nature for a cleaner, healthier kitchen environment.

If you liked this post you might like, 4 steps to a squeaky clean a toaster oven or how to clean a stainless steel sink.

The post Non-Toxic Oven Cleaning: A Review of Campanelli Cleaning Paste appeared first on Design Morsels.

I have replaced three asphalt shingle roofs and done roof repairs on many homes.  I’m sharing what I learned during the process, the specific questions I ask and how to find qualified contractors.  I’ve also shared my tip for how to get some or all of your roof repair paid for by your insurance carrier if there is damage.  

Signs You Need to Replace vs Repair Your Roof

The first step, If possible get someone you know and trust to go on your roof before the roofer and take pictures.  That way you’re armed with information before a roofer comes to tell you not surprisingly that you need a new roof.  

1.) Leaks – If you are noticing a leak, this is usually the first sign that your roof needs attention.  I recently had a roof leak and was given two bids. One to patch over the old shingles ($800)  and one to replace the roof ($15k).  If your roof is over 15 years old, it might not pay to patch it.  Repairing damage from leaks is expensive and leaks are hard to find.  Where the water appears in your ceiling, might not be where the where the water is getting through the roof, so you will often have to patch a large area.

2.) Weather Damage – Roofs can be damaged during storms.  Tree branches, wind and hail can all do damage.   Before you hire a contractor it is a good idea to see if your insurance company sees damage that might be covered partially or fully by your insurance.  

3.) Roof Age – How long your roof lasts depends on many factors.  It depends on the age of your roof and the materials of your roof.  An asphalt shingle roof can last from 15-30 years depending on the type of shingles and the conditions in your area.  

How to Find a Reliable Roofer

One of the best ways to find REAL reviews is on Nextdoor.  I’ve had really good luck with messaging people that live in my neighborhood to ask for feedback.  It’s also a good idea to check any potential roofing contractor through the Better Business Bureau.  I don’t trust Angie’s list or Home Advisor because it’s more of an advertising platform.  

A reputable roofing contractor will show you pictures of your roof and also meet your insurance person up there, if you think you have an insurance claim.  If you take nothing else away from this, get your roofer to go on the roof with the adjuster.  I have had three roof replacement projects that were mostly paid by the insurance company doing this.  

Once you find a reputable roofer they should be willing to give you past customers to contact for references.  

Types of Roofing Products

1. Asphalt Roofing – Asphalt is the most popular choice for roofing material.  Asphalt shingles come in a variety of colors, are affordable and easy to install.  On the downside, asphalt shingles have a fairly short lifespan and require routine maintenance and inspection. 
2. Metal Roofing – Metal roofing is becoming more popular.  Most are made out of steel, but you also see stainless steel and copper metal roofs.  These are more expensive than asphalt, in part due to the cost of installation.  The advantage is that they last much longer and have longer warranty coverage than asphalt shingles.  They can also be quite noisy when it rain, which can be an advantage or a disadvantage, depending on your point of view. 
3. Premium Roof Systems – These materials are the most expensive, but have the best curb appeal.  This includes such things as synthetic shingles, cedar shake and slate. 

List of Questions to Ask A Potential Roofer

1. Are you licensed and insured? Verify that the roofer has proper licensing and that they carry both liability insurance and worker’s compensation insurance to protect you in case of any accidents on the job site.
2. Can you provide a list of references? As I said, I have contacted past customers to get feedback from them on the quality of their work.  Very often the roofer will have multiple projects going on at once and you can go visit a current job site.  It’s worth doing so you can see if they protect the landscaping around the house and did a good job on the roof installation. 

1. Do you offer a warranty? Both the new shingles and the workmanship should come with a warranty. Ask for the paperwork.  
2. What is your work schedule like? You’ll want to know when they will start, what their daily schedule will likely be, and when they expect to finish.
3. Who will supervise the project? It’s important to know if the person you’re talking with will be on-site during the work or if another person will be the project manager. You should also ask how to communicate with them during the project.  In my experience, the person who sells you the roof isn’t there for most of actual work, but they should come by at least once or twice a day.  My roofer was asking questions and texting during the process, often with pictures from above.  
4. How will you protect my property? Replacing a roof is messy and a good roofer will have a plan to protect your property. Ask about precautions they’ll take to avoid damage to your landscaping, driveway, and other parts of your property.  An experienced roofer will usually use some kind of metal detector to find nails after they are finished.  
5. Do you subcontract any work? If so, you’ll want to ask similar questions about the subcontracted roofing crew credentials and proof of insurance coverage.
6. How will you handle waste disposal? The company should take responsibility for clean-up and disposal of the old roofing materials.
7. What will be the total cost of the entire project? Ask for an itemized, detailed written estimate to understand the cost of materials, labor, and other expenses.  This can tell you a lot about what’s included.  
8. What will you do in case of bad weather during the job? You want to make sure that your house will be protected in case of rain, high winds or other inclement weather.
9. How do you handle unexpected repairs? If the roofer discovers damage beyond what can be seen initially (like rotten decking or faulty insulation), how will those additional costs be handled?
10. What is your procedure for installing flashing? Flashing is essential to prevent water leaks around chimneys, vent stacks, and other roof penetrations. Make sure they don’t plan to re-use old flashing.
11. Will you replace the drip edge or edge metal when you install the new roof? Drip edge is critical for directing water into the gutters (if you have them) and decking from water damage. It is the metal edge around the perimeter of the roof.  It should usually be replaced when installing a new roof and it’s required by most building codes.  Inspectors love to point this out if you are later trying to sell.   The cost of drip edge is approximately $2 per linear foot.

12. What type of underlayment will you use? The underlayment is the layer between the decking and shingles.   There are two main types, felt  (black material) and synthetic (can be green). If you are getting felt there are two different weights, 15lb and 30lb.  The heavier weights cost more and also might be more expensive for labor.  The synthetic is even more expensive than the felt and repels water, which can protect you from leaks.  If you don’t plan to stay in your house for 15+ years you should weigh the pros and cons.  
13. Will there be ice dam protection? This is something to think about if you live in colder climates (or lately even in warm ones).  

I hope this research helps you.  I know it’s something I pull out when I’m talking to a roofer for reference.  It gives you peace of mind to go into the process armed with the right questions and as much information as possible.

If you enjoyed this post you might be interested in gutter installation mistakes to avoid and best attic insulation.  

The post What to Ask a Roofer Before You Hire Them appeared first on Design Morsels.

Curtains are one of my top three interior design priorities in every room. I happened upon huge pair of linen drapes that my mom could no longer use, but they were filthy. First thing, they needed a serious cleaning.

But how exactly should you clean linen curtains? In this blog post, we’ll delve into the best way to wash linen curtains and I will share with you what worked for me and what didn’t.

Step 1: Checking the Care Label

The first step in any cleaning process involves checking the care label for the manufacturer’s instructions (if they are there). The type of fabric will dictate how you clean your curtains. In most cases, linen curtains call for “dry cleaning only”.

There aren’t many times that I ignore the manufacturer’s instructions, but white linen drapes are one occasion. If you dry clean white linen drapes they get yellow.  

Even if your linen curtains say they are machine-washable, you might want to consider hand washing as the safest bet. Linen is known to shrink when exposed to too much water or heat.

Step 2: Preparing Your Curtains for Washing

Before you wash curtains, it’s a good idea to remove any surface dust. If you’ve got a lot of dust or pet hair on your curtains, a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment could be your best friend.

For heavy fabrics, it might be more efficient to use an upholstery attachment. If you have metal rings or curtain weights, if possible remove them prior to washing to avoid damage.

I skipped this step because the curtains weren’t hanging when I got them.

Step 3: Washing Your Curtains

I was very hesitant to wash my linen curtains in the washing machine, even on the delicate cycle.  I tried a couple of methods, one was much more successful than the other.

The first method I used to clean my linen curtains didn’t seem to do much.  I placed the curtains in a dryer with a wet towel and ran the machine with no heat.  They still looked dirty when the cycle was complete. 

Next, I decided to try handwashing my linen curtains.  

• I placed them in a large tub of cold water with Oxyclean and just let them soak.  
• rinsed them with cold water then removed as much water as possible without wringing the curtains.
• I dried them outside on the line, but you could dry them on a flat surface. Do NOT put them in the dryer.

 I was surprised at how much better they looked and how dirty the water was!!

A spot test in an inconspicuous area is always a good idea before washing the entire curtain to ensure there’s no color change or damage.

Step 4: Drying Your Curtains

After the washing process, rinse your curtains thoroughly with cold water. Remove excess water gently. Never wring out your curtains, as this can damage the fabric of your curtains.

Other machine-washable curtains can be dried on a low temperature or delicate cycle to minimize potential shrinking, but drying wet linen in a dryer is risky. I would not do it based on my experience with linen in the dryer.

The best option is to dry them outdoors in the sun. Second best, hang them up inside or lie them flat.

Step 5: Ironing and Rehanging Your Curtains

Some fabric types might require you to iron them while still damp, while others can be ironed once they’re dry. Use a low heat setting to avoid damaging the fabric of your curtains.

The easiest way to avoid wrinkles is to rehang your curtains while they’re still slightly damp. In fact, you can skip the ironing and use a handheld steamer to relax the wrinkles if you are not a fan of ironing (like me).

Keeping Your Curtains in Good Shape

To keep your curtains looking their best, try to clean them on a regular basis. Spring cleaning is the only time many people remember to clean curtains, but dust bunnies don’t just breed in the spring!

Also, consider investing in a steam cleaner or vacuum cleaner with an upholstery attachment. These tools can be highly effective for regular cleaning and can help prolong the life of your curtains.

It’s always a good idea to keep your curtains in good shape, and with these instructions, your curtains will look as good as new.

If you liked this post you might enjoy how to get white sheets white again or how to make linen curtains out of sheets.

The post The Art of Clean: How to Wash Linen Curtains appeared first on Design Morsels.

Not all mold is dangerous.  Before you start you need to determine two things:

1. What is the underlying cause of the mold?
2. Is the mold something you need to be afraid of?

Why are closets such an ideal environment for mold? Primarily due to the lack of proper ventilation, high humidity levels, and damp clothes that trap moisture against the closet walls. Dirty clothes, wet towels, and damp towels tossed into a laundry hamper in the closet also create an ideal breeding ground for mold spores. A simple thing like leaving your washing machine door open can help air circulate and prevent mold. Moreover, leaky plumbing or water leaks in walls or ceilings can lead to water damage, further promoting the growth of mold.

So, what’s the best way to tackle this issue? The first step is identifying signs of mold. Black spots or dark spaces on the walls or on your clothing items can hint at a mold problem. A musty odor or a moldy smell is another strong sign. Even if you have the cleanest home, you’re not immune to mold.  It is easy to test the mold using a  kit like this. 

I use affiliate links so I can afford to keep doing this. Hope it saves you time. See my disclosure policy.

I don’t recommend getting one that you do the test yourself. These are not very accurate. Get one that has to be mailed to a lab. The sample is easy to collect and then you send it off to be tested.

The next step is mold remediation (which is a thousand dollar word for cleaning it up). If you’re reading about mold there is NO DOUBT that all of the remediation companies would love to charge you a hefty fee to clean up your mold, but that’s not always necessary. That’s why I suggest getting it tested.

If the test comes back and tells you that your mold is toxic or black mold, it’s best to hire professionals. 

For DIY mold removal, you’ll need rubber gloves, a spray bottle, bleach or white vinegar, and hot water. Create a cleaning solution with one part bleach to ten parts water or equal parts vinegar and water. I personally hate the smell of bleach, so I used vinegar.

Before you start cleaning, remove the affected clothing items. Moldy clothes and those stored in plastic dry cleaning bags should be placed in separate plastic bags to prevent the spread of mold. After this, wash them in hot water in the washing machine. For non-washable fabric fibers, direct sunlight can help get rid of mold.

Now, to the moldy closet. Remove any remaining items and thoroughly spray down the closet walls and closet floor using the bleach or vinegar solution. Once you apply the cleaner, let it sit for 10 minutes. If you find mold on a porous surface like wood, a stronger solution, such as hydrogen peroxide, can be more effective. Always patch test any cleaning solution on a hidden spot if it’s wood first.

Next get a solution of 1 part vinegar, 4 parts water and a few tablespoons of baking powder. Go back over the walls using a brush dipped in this solution to scrub off the mold. If you use bleach you will want to make sure the walls are completely free of bleach before you put clothes back in the closet. I wiped the walls down with water.

Once you’ve dealt with the immediate problem, focus on prevention. Closets, like most storage areas, are often dark and lack airflow, making them an ideal place for mildew growth. One of the easiest ways to prevent this is by improving air circulation in your closet space. Keep closet doors open whenever possible, install wire shelves instead of solid ones for better air flow, and consider using an exhaust fan if your closet is large or has an issue with high humidity.

Managing moisture levels is crucial too. Avoid storing damp or wet clothing items in the closet. Always ensure your clothes are dry before putting them in the closet. A dehumidifier or silica gel packets (I ordered these to hang in the closet) can also help reduce moisture. Closets designed with better ventilation and moisture control are a good idea if you’re considering a remodel.

I also ran my handy ozone machine inside the closet, because why not? I use ozone for so many things, like getting rid of paint fumes.

Finally, routine checks and cleaning are important. Regularly checking for signs of mold and promptly addressing any water damage from leaky pipes or water leaks can help prevent a full-blown mold infestation. Consider doing a deep clean every few months, especially in seasons with high humidity.

Keep in mind that even small amounts of mold can pose health risks IF it’s a certain kind of mold. Watch for any signs like skin rashes and more serious respiratory problems. If you have any concerns or if the problem persists despite your best efforts, it’s a good idea to contact a professional mold remediation service. It’s always a good time to make your closet (and your entire house) a healthier space.

Remember, mold needs organic material, a moist environment, and a lack of sunlight or air conditioning to thrive. By keeping your closets and other storage areas dry, clean, and well-ventilated, you’ll be taking the most effective ways to keep mold spores at bay and ensure a healthier living environment.

You might be interested in duct cleaning, is it worth it?

The post The Best Way to Banish Closet Mold: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Design Morsels.

First things first, the best thing pet owners can do is invest in a  high-quality vacuum cleaner designed to tackle pet hair. My top pick in the vacuum category is the Shark Rocket ultra light bagless vacuum.

It is easy to maneuver and comes with several attachments that make cleaning up pet hair a breeze.  This vacuum is also very light, only 7 pounds which is a huge plus in my book. It is also much less expensive than a Dyson vacuum.  I know some people like cordless vacuums, but I find that they lose suction quickly. 

Another great way to clean hardwood floors is using a rubber broom.

This tool does wonders in removing pet hair, especially when dealing with a lot of dog hair. To use, simply sweep in the direction of the grain of the wood to gather hair and dust. You’ll be surprised at how much this simple tool can pick up!  

When it comes to mopping hardwood floors I have tried just about everything on the market and I have a few top picks and one to avoid.  My favorite mop for sealed hardwood floors and tile is the Bissel Power Fresh Stem mop.  

This thing is amazing.  It comes with 2 microfiber pads that you can just throw in the washing machine after mopping.  It has a small removable water tank and 3 steam levels.  

I have also used the Bona hardwood floor microfiber mop and I like it a lot, but the steam cleaner seems to do a better job for me.  

I would NOT recommend the Swiffer wet jet, even the one designed for wood floors.  I found that it left a dull residue on my wood floors that was not easy to get rid of.  

Now, as we all know, living with pets isn’t just about managing the hair. Pet stains and accidents are a part of the journey too. From water bowls overturning to the occasional litter box mishap or accident, hardwood floors can take a lot of wear if not properly cared for. But fear not, there are ways to handle these too.

When it comes to pet stains, steer clear of harsh chemicals that could potentially damage your flooring or harm your pets. Instead, opt for an enzymatic cleaner or a solution.  I like Natures Miracle and keep this on hand in a spray bottle at all times.  

You can also make a solution of hydrogen peroxide and warm water. Remember to always test a small area first, though! Also, try using paper towels or a clean cloth to blot up any excess liquid before applying any solution.

In cases of fecal matter or litter box accidents, pick up the mess with paper towels, then clean the area with an enzyme cleaner to break down any residual particles and odors. Also, as an added bonus, regular grooming of your pets by a professional groomer, coupled with keeping your pet’s nails (be it your dog’s nails or cat’s) short and blunt, can reduce the scratching and scuffing of your floors.

Preventative measures also go a long way in maintaining the cleanliness of your floors. Placing mats in areas your pet frequents can catch any loose hair or dirt they may carry. These are some of my favorite outdoor pet mats.

I also have couches and chairs with removable slip covers so I can just throw them in the wash.  You might find some helpful hints here: Best pet friendly sofas.  

While hardwood flooring may seem like a challenge with pets, remember that there are also other types of flooring like ceramic tile and laminate flooring that can withstand daily traffic and are easy to maintain.

Maintaining clean hardwood floors with pets in the house does require a little extra care, but it’s definitely possible and worth it for the joy our furry friends bring to our lives. I hope you’ve found these favorite tips helpful, and remember, keeping a clean house is not just good for our family members but also for our pets.

I use affiliate links so I can afford to keep doing this. Hope it saves you time. See my disclosure policy.

Remember, whether you’re a long-time pet owner or a new dog lover, the key to clean floors lies in consistent maintenance and using the right tools and products. Happy cleaning!

The post The Best Way to Clean Hardwood Floors If You Have Pets appeared first on Design Morsels.

If you agree that having garage storage bins that all match is BS, this post is for you.  Here are some ideas for organizing your garage without spending a lot.  Don’t get me wrong, I was tempted to add overhead storage racks and peg boards for my hand tools.  But then I asked myself, does this really make my life better? or does it just look good on social media?

I don’t care if the inside of my garage looks beautiful on social media.  There are only two things that matter in my garage.  First, do I know what’s there so I don’t waste money buying things I already have.  Second, do I plan to use what’s there.  There is no “just in case I need it” stored in my garage anymore.  

The Psychology of Storage

Here is a great example I bet you can probably identify with. First, I have two extension cords, one is 100 feet.  It’s so large that it has its own bin.  So I have a giant bin filled with a thing that I’ve not used in 5 years or more.    I also had a bin of Halloween decorations that my sister couldn’t bear to give away, but I haven’t used them in 5 years either.  I have no plan to use either of these things, so why am I coming up with storage solutions?

Second, I have a bike with rotted tires.  I haven’t ridden it in a long time.  The difference is I DO have plans to use it.  But I DON’T have plans to add an expensive wall bike rack to my store my unused bike.  I have so many things in my area that I can bike to that I want to hold onto it.  

It seems that the more extra storage space we have, the more plastic bins full of stuff we jam into it.  And then we have to make all the junk we store look pretty.  Do we really?  

I think the magic is in storing LESS.  Don’t use up all of the available space as a dumping ground.  The best part about a small garage is that I can’t fit much stuff.  There literally isn’t enough floor space.  

Practical Storage That’s Free

There are ways to organize the things inside your garage without spending anything.  Here are practical Do’s and Don’ts.    

• Don’t keep everything in a bin.  Do Use cardboard boxes to store items if you don’t have plastic storage bins around.  Use a sharpie to write what’s inside each box.  I use both, cardboard and plastic bins.

• Don’t hang up peg boards or any tool rack on the garage wall.  These are designed to keep all of your tools visible, but that’s not required.  Do keep tools in a bucket is a great idea for easy access.   

• Don’t mount everything to the wall, it takes a lot of time and it’s overkill.  Do stack bulky items like large garden tools in a corner.  This is a perfect solution and it’s a budget-friendly option.  

• DO stack heavy to light.  If you don’t have shelves, just use organized piles.  You don’t need expensive garage cabinets.  Heavier items like sports equipment underneath lighter items like holiday decorations.  We never like to show anything “stacked”, but this was how we organized before Instagram told us that storage had to be pretty.
• Do put what you use most at eye level.  If you have freestanding shelving units put small tools and cleaning supplies in the middle.  This gives you quick access to the most used things.   Put seasonal items like your Christmas tree up high.

• Don’t keep leftover paint that is old or you don’t even know what you used it for.  Take paint to be recycled.  
• Don’t use baskets.  I don’t know about you, but baskets are really great for collecting dust.  They are not good for outdoor storage.
• Do put similar items in one location.  This tip will save you more money than any other thing.  

The best practice is not to have a picture-perfect garage.  I just want everything to have a place.  I’m tired of seeing images all over social media that don’t reflect what a REAL garage looks like.  It’s the same as a pantry.  

Do I really care if all of my baking supplies are in matching clear containers? Amazon loves this but it’s not a great way to spend money.  

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My garage space is full of my own stuff and has become a dumping ground for things family members have given me.  Just in case your garage is as full of unwanted items as mine, here’s the garage cleaning checklist I made for myself before I started.  If you prefer a printable garage spring cleaning checklist, you can get that here.  

An organized garage means two things:  

1.)  You know what’s there. This prevents you from buying things you already own or have multiples of similar items. Raise your hand if you have multiple cans of primer.

2.) You only keep what you will use.  We all have many things that we have saved over time because we “might use them”. This results in a lot of clutter. Clutter isn’t just inside, it can be in the form of scraps of spare wood or gardening tools.   Let go of the things that don’t have a clear plan to use.    

Step one: Categorize

The first step is to determine sorting categories according to what you keep in your home’s garage. 

• Paint (or empty paint cans)
• Paint Supplies
• Wood scraps
• Small handheld garden tools
• Large garden tools, garden hose
• Other tools (drill, driver, hand chain saw)
• Snow shovels (if you are lucky to live someplace you need those)
• Hardware (screws, nails, etc)
• Car cleaning and maintenance supplies
• Christmas decorations
• Sports equipment
• Halloween decorations
• Christmas Tree
• Extra tiles from remodeling
• Workout equipment
• Signs

Step Two – Sort

Sorting items to throw away to one side of garage and sort items to give away to the other side of garage.

I am not willing to take the time to sell things at a yard sale, but if that is your cup of tea, make a separate pile for things you want to sell.  I do sell some the best bits on Facebook (which I talk about here).

• Move anything you haven’t touched recently (your definition, mine is things I haven’t used in the past year) to the throw away spot
• Move give away items to the give away spot

Step 3 – Clean and Replace

For each shelf/area/bin determine a clear plan for where each category of items from Step 1 BELONGS,

Clean -This is a good time to sweep/hose down the floor of your garage.   If you are really ambitious you can use a power washer. Get rid of cobwebs and dirt that accumulate naturally.

Replace items.  If your garage is short on storage space make use of overhead storage and vertical space. 

Pulling everything out and emptying the entire garage is not really a good option for me.  Clearing out the entire space is a bigger time commitment and I only have one day to do it.  I’m NOT the person who is going to set up a bunch of beautiful matching storage containers and shelves in my garage.  I don’t have the time or the money for that, even if it looks really pretty.   

If you have the time, it’s a good idea to start with an empty garage and clean the entire floor before you start re-organizing items. 

An organized and clean garage has has nothing to do with beauty and matching bins.  It’s ALL about FUNCTION.  I just need easy access to the things I use most often and functional storage solutions. 

If you liked this, you might be interested in a more practical approach to pantry organization and garage organization tips that are free.

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Many general cleaning products are not safe for marble because they are abrasive cleaners or contain acidic substances. Because marble is a very porous stone these types of cleaners can cause etch marks in the stone. The same holds true for granite countertops or any natural stone countertops,   In addition, acidic liquids like vinegar or lemon juice can damage marble counters over time. 

This sent me on a search for the right way to clean my marble surfaces.  There are commercial products available for cleaning natural stone surfaces like marble and granite, but I found making my own diy marble cleaner is an inexpensive and simple solution.

I keep two different marble cleaners on hand, one for my countertops and one for my floors.  

Type 1: Marble Countertops

For my everyday countertop cleaning solution I use a combination of water, hydrogen peroxide and Castile soap (or any mild dish soap of your choice).  

I keep a spray bottle with the mixture ready to go with  4 parts water (4 cups), 1 part hydrogen peroxide, 1 tablespoon Castile soap.  You can use this to spray the entire surface then wipe the excess water with a clean cloth.  I use these glass refillable spray bottles.

I use affiliate links so I can afford to keep doing this.  Hope it saves you time. See my disclosure policy.

Because dish soap has a neutral ph it doesn’t cause etching of the marble.  I add hydrogen peroxide to tackle basic food stains.  

Type 2: Marble Floors

For my marble floor tile, I have a different approach.  For general cleaning, I first vacuum the floors then use a soft mop with a very diluted mixture of water and Castile soap (or any gentle dish soap that does not contain abrasives or lemon juice).  This same solution works on shower walls.  

If the stain is recent it can sometimes be taken care of with just dish soap and water.  I add 1 tsp of dish soap to a gallon of water, apply it to the stain and let it sit for a few minutes.

If you have rust stains or mineral deposits, you’ll need to make a poultice, which I talk about here.  

Marble Cleaning Tips

A few other tips on maintaining and cleaning marble surfaces:

• I discovered that if marble is properly sealed it is naturally bacteria-resistant so disinfecting is not always necessary.  If you find you need to disinfect (perhaps raw chicken was placed on your marble kitchen countertops) you can spray with a little isopropyl alcohol or antibacterial soap and wipe it clean straight away with clean water and a soft cloth.
• If you have light-colored marble you can use a cleaner with a bit of hydrogen peroxide.  If you have dark marble, you can use a small amount of acetone.

If you liked this, you might be interested in Soapstone countertop care.

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